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Genericos

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Celso Suguimoto
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Genericos

#1 Mensagem por Celso Suguimoto »

Resolvi abrir esse topico para compartilhar e tbem depois guardar as "receitas" rs

Tem muitos produtos de "grife" ou proprios para aquario q na realidade é possivel encontrar no mercado comum a preços acessiveis, resta apenas manipular

MELAFIX

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Bem utilizei em um flame angel

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=40539&hilit=melaleuca

A partir deste topico

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=43599&p=439951&hilit=melaleuca#p439951

Melafix é um antibiotico natural da API leve feito a partir da Malaleuca Australiano (Melaleuca alternifolia), muito facil de encontrar em farmacias de manipulação, no caso comprei na UltraFormulas a um custo de 20 e poucos reais se nao me engano.

Ele é diluido a 1%, ou seja para cada 99 ml de água destilada, 1 ml de oleo.

Para usar: Agite bem antes de usar, remova carvão ativado, desligue UV ou ozonio se tiver e adicionar 5 ml de Melafix generico para cada 10 galões ou 27 litros de água do aquário. Dose diária durante 7 dias. Após 7 dias fazer uma TPA de 25% água e continuar o tratamento se necessário.

Uma referencia sobre melafix

Melafix organic aquarium and pond treatment for wounds, torn fins, ulcers USE: Repairs damaged fins, ulcers, mild eye infections, and open wounds, often caused by rough handling, fighting, and occasionally “ammonia burns”, although a fish bath or hospital tank with Methylene Blue is often more effective.
Melaluca tea extract also promotes re-growth of damaged tissue and fins when used as an antiseptic.

References:
*Fish Bath Information
*Methylene Blue from AAP

About Melaleuca
Melaleuca tea leaves Melaleuca alternifolia is a plant that belongs to the family Myrtaceae, of which aboriginals of New South Wales (Australia) have long used as an antiseptic.
The oil is a natural antimicrobial allelochemics Phytoncide obtained from the leaves of the tea tree contains marked germicidal activity owing to the presence of terpunen-4-ol and is useful in eliminating germs.
Other constituents in the oil extracted from this plant like alpha-terpineol and linalool are also play a major role in maintaining the anti-microbial activities.

The oil is acquired from the tea tree leaves through a process of steam refinement.
While a third of the oil contains different terpene hydrocarbons like pinene, terpinene and cymene, the remaining part comprises mainly of oxygenated terpenes.
The terpenes are mainly terpinen-4-ol that may form up to 60 percent of the total oil derived from the tea tree leaves.

However it is noteworthy that Melafix employs the TTO found in the related Melaleuca leucadendron tree (AKA the Cajeput tree) found in SE Asia, New Guinea and surrounding areas.
This is important, as there is much less scientific studies backing up the use of TTO (tea tree oil) found in Melaleuca leucadendron vs. Melaleuca alternifolia.
This admittedly leads me to question why API chose to use this form of TTO vs. the better documented Melaleuca alternifolia.



More about Aquatic uses of Melafix;

Melafix is sometimes effective against early stages of Aeromonas bacteria which often attack open wounds, sores, and abrasions.
However the main use of Melaluca (Melafix) is as an antiseptic or bactericidal for MILD wounds, torn fins, mild eye infections, etc. on fish for which it is a good product to have on hand as a first response treatment as one would for a human antiseptic such as "Neosporin".

As well it is noteworthy that Melafix (TTO) is more useful in “battling” Aeromonas by aiding in healing the fish prior to this opportunistic gram negative bacterium even gets a “foot hold” (especially since TTO has little proven effectiveness against full blown gram negative infections).
More about: Aeromonas bacteria

As to eye infections, Melafix is an excellent first response to eye infections and often is all that is needed for mild case, however more serious case generally should included medicated baths, direct applications of medications to the eye (such as Methylene Blue or Potassium Permanganate), along with in tank treatment with stronger gram positive medications such as Erythromycin.

Eye Infection Reference:
Aquarium Answers, Eye Infections, Streptococcus

Product Reference:
Melafix from AAP
Potassium Permanganate
Erythromycin from AAP

Melaluca tends to be more effective against gram positive bacteria (which is often the cause of eye infections), which are less common in aquatic diseases, making Melafix a lesser choice to Pimafix which is more effective against gram negative bacteria (as noted earlier, they can be combined).

More importantly, MULTIPLE excellent University level human and veterinary studies (most out of Australia) show that Tea Tree oil (used to manufacture Melafix) can be an effective EXTERNAL treatment against many bacterium.
HOWEVER there is little evidence of internal effectiveness (it is toxic internally as well), so the use of Melafix to treat systemic infections (which aquatic infections often are) such as Septicemia is TOTALLY useless!

For this reason I still have to scratch my head as to the use & recommendation of Melafix to treat these infections as all scientific evidence says NO, so those who claim it helped are making anecdotal statements, that are likely explained by other reasons/answers.

I have used Melafix quite a bit with mixed results.
Sometimes though this product gets reviews that are very inaccurate from both sides; some claim it is useless (it is not) others will recommend it for everything of which this product has many limits.
I think this is where I want to pull my hair out as those who over recommend Melafix as well as those who say it is useless really understand what Melafix really works best on or should be used for.

An absurd claim put out by an old Goldfish site that is present in some Google Groups is that Melafix will burn the gills of injured fish; I have NEVER seen ANY evidence of this and quite the opposite I have found it soothing to the fish with wounds (see the university study link that disproves this common internet myth).
If you doubt this try pouring some Melafix on an open sore you have and see what happens!

First Response use of Melafix; I am attempting make the point in this article that Melafix or Melafix combined with Pimafix is a good first response treatment for mild/moderate injuries, torn fins, damaged gills (often from high ammonia).
However I urge readers to exercise more scientific and less anecdotal thinking when using Melafix.

Since Melafix has been proven scientifically to be primarily effective only on gram positive bacterium which are far less often a cause of serious aquarium and pond bacterial infections than gram negative infections such as Columnaris, the use of this product for said infections is totally useless. Gram negative Pseudomonas MAY be the only possible exception but this is not generally a common cause of virulent infections in fish. More importantly, my use of test samples from virulent fish sores in the 1990s showed not activity by Melafix against the the bacterium involved.
HOWEVER since many gram positive infections can be first invaders in injuries, sores, torn fins, etc., the immediate use of Melafix can help prevent opportunistic bacteria such as Aeromonas or Columnaris to get started in the first place. Use as a first response product is where I have found Melafix most useful and why I feel it should be part of of every fish keepers on hand arsenal, I just caution its use for most full blown fish infections (though combining with Pimafix can improve results in some instances).

Infection Resources:
Aeromonas Bacterial infections in aquariums, ponds
Columnaris, Fungus, Saprolegnia


My point about thinking scientifically means that if, for example you had a fish with symptoms of Aeromonas (which is an extremely opportunistic infection that often strikes in less than optimum conditions) and then changed water and performed other maintenance tasks that improved water conditions, while at the same time used Melafix to treat the fish, then your fish recovered; this is NOT proof that the Melafix cured your fish. More than likely the water improvement tasks helped the fish fight the infection themselves.
Making such a claim is an example of anecdotal information as this is not a scientific method of making accurate assessments of aquarium treatments, unfortunately this is how these types of aquatic urban myths get started and are then spread via non or poorly moderated forums such as Yahoo Answers.

Even with gram positive infections such as Aquatic Streptococcus which Melafix may be effective for (in mild cases or in conjunction with other treatment methods), the potential user should note that the ingredients in Melafix are not very strong against a virulent Streptococcus infection.

Compare Melafix to Bactine in use for fishMelafix’s properties as an antimicrobial are limited (at least at the concentrations found in Melafix). However I do find it useful for a first response to injury of all kinds to fish where I HAVE observed some good results here and often the fish are more calm (IMO) after use of this product.
The best way to think of Melafix (Melaluca) is to compare it to human use of Neosporin or antiseptics like Bactine after a cut, abrasion or similar.
Melafix has similar properties and uses and like Neosporin or Bactine and similarly does not take the place of stronger treatments for more serious infections or injuries.

An analogy so as to better understand how and what to use Melafix for is these:

Would you use Bactine for an abrasion, mild bite/sting or cut?
Yes, as would an aquarist with Melafix

Would you use Bactine for this same cut that developed a Staph infection?
No, nor would you use Melafix, you would advance to a stronger antibiotic such as Kanamycin or Erythromycin

Would you use Bactine if you were severely injured by shrapnel, leaving a gaping wound?
No, nor would you use Melafix for a severe injury (a medicated bath, possible with salts, Methylene Blue, Kanamycin, etc. would be the first course followed by a hospital tank with an antibiotic such as Kanamycin & Nitrofurazone or Triple Sulfa).

As with Pimafix (and even more so since it is effective for less bacterium), I do not recommend Melafix for serious infections, rather a first line of defense as already noted and in combination with the slightly more effective Pimafix.

Possible Dangers:

As with Pimafix, I would be careful in Marine Aquarium use, although with fish generally this is not a problem (although effectiveness is questionable since marine fish diseases even more so than freshwater diseases tend toward gram negative). With marine reef tanks I would not recommend the use of Melafix.

Many claim that Melafix can cause problems with Labyrinth fish and Pencil Fish, which research has shown to be a half truth.
I have used and tested Melafix on many Labyrinth fish (in particular Bettas) and not found these results as claimed.
Further more, one aquarium website incorrectly stated that the "oils" in both Pimafix and Melafix are dangerous to Labyrinth due to the need to "breath air".

I can correct this incorrect statement in that part of the patent for Melafix (& Pimafix) is the process of refining of the oil OUT of both these products.
This can EASILY be proved by adding Melafix or Pimafix to the water and watching for it to float on the water, which it does not.
HOWEVER before implying this person in that aquarium website does not know what she is talking about, Melafix can and does cause foaming, which at least in theory could be a problem with certain fish.
I would also refer to my analogy I used to explain anecdotal concerns with Pimafix as to the use of Tylenol in humans.

I would venture a guess that those who have had problems are certainly not imagining it, however that some sort of chemical reaction happened (again I refer to my Tylenol/alcohol combination analogy I made in the Pimafix section).
My reason for making this statement is that I and others in my profession have used Melafix with Labyrinth fish/Pencil fish and have not observed fatal reactions.

Current Research/Hypothesis

Currently the best scientific information shows that there may be link between the tea tree oil in Melafix and toxicity in Labyrinth fish/Pencil fish, but this link is NOT what many in aquatic forums are anecdotally assuming.
The best information points to liver function, which would explain why some (such as myself) have not observed this problems in our tests, as admittedly the early studies did not initially focus on over doses or chemistry variables in the water.

Basically Tea Tree oil (melaleuca, Melaleuca alternifolia) is a phenol-containing essential oil.
Its active ingredients are cyclic terpenes which have a similar structure and action to turpentine (a known liver toxin).
The acute toxicity for the major terpenic compounds (linalool, ocimene, alpha-terpinene, 1,8-cineole, terpinolene, camphene) is 2 - 5 g/kg body weight, which is considered a moderately toxic range.
From a toxicologic point of view Tea Tree oil is comparable to oil of turpentine, which is readily absorbed from the gastrointestinal tract and then finds its way to the liver.
What may be the problem is that under certain conditions Melafix may be toxic to the liver in Labyrinth fish/Pencil fish.

My current hypothesis (based on early tests), is that since the best research shows similarities between TTO and Turpentine (both are terpenes, but then so is beta carotene), is that in an acidic environment, in particular an environment with nitric acid (which is quite possible in an aquarium), the chemical reaction can produce chemicals that may harm the liver in certain fish that have a tendency to ingest the water around them such as Labyrinth fish/Pencil fish (via the surface).

Certain terpenes such as turpentine are actually explosive when combined with nitric acid (this chemical reaction is used in rocket fuels!).
On a small scale (aquarium environment) some similar reaction may be happening that with certain fish can cause death. This would also explain why this problem has never been noted in marine fish even though they constantly drink the water around them, since marine fish are always kept in an alkaline environment.

This would also explain why this reaction has not been observed in my tests with Melafix (even at double doses) with Labyrinth fish/Pencil fish since I conducted these tests in a balanced Redox mineral/electrolyte environment.

At this point my advice is to maintain a non acidic environment, proper mineralization and Redox, which is something I have been a big proponent of for many years now based on scientific evidence of the benefits therein.
Since most evidence points to this conclusion, this may be the link in this problem, especially since the TTO found in Melafix (and all terpenes) is a known Redox reducer and an acidic/oxidizing environment of ANY cause could cause possible undesirable effects.

Another evidence pointing toward this conclusion is that based in emails, browsing of Forums (Betta forums in particular), and speaking with clients and colleagues; is that in almost every case where Melafix has been a problem the person using this product was incorrectly keeping the Betta in an acidic, poorly mineralized, poor Redox environment of which they were unfortunately given misguided advice to do so.

This also brings up an important point about Melafix use in general for all fish and that is that both Melafix and Pimafix are acidic and negatively affect Redox Balance, so while these products certainly have their place in aquarium use, continued use will most definitely cause issues with Redox Balance and therefore long term fish immunity.
The use of products such as Wonder Shells can counteract this problem and these should definitely be used with Melafix (if only fragments of AAP Wonder Shells), however these are not the solution for long term use of Melafix and therefore use of Melafix for longer than 10 days should be avoided.

Product Resource: Wonder Shells; Unique Versions only from AAP

I recommend reading these articles:
Importance of Minerals, Electrolytes, GH, KH in Aquariums
Aquarium/Pond Redox

PLEASE reference this excellent university level study for more about the positives and negatives of Tea Tree oil found in Melafix:
Tea Tree Oil: a Review of Antimicrobial and Other Medicinal Properties

Also this excellent fact sheet from the University of Western Australia:
Tea tree oil has broad-spectrum in vitro antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral activity

DOSAGE: Refer to Melafix instructions or to purchase, please see this site:
API Treatments; Melafix

Further Resources:
http://www.rirdc.gov.au/reports/TTO/01-10.pdf
US Patent for Melafix
Is Gram Positive Tea Tree Oil Safe for Pets

ReefCelsois III

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Re: Genericos

#2 Mensagem por Wellington Salles »

Showwww o tópico Celso!

Parabéns!
[glow=red]Onde tudo começou...[/glow][shadow=blue]

Reef Wellington Salles
[/shadow]

[glow=red]Esse é o meu Mundo, esse é o meu Reef:[/glow][shadow=blue] Reef WS II[/shadow]

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Re: Genericos

#3 Mensagem por Celso Suguimoto »

Tks... Wellington

Continuando

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Red Slime

Embora o fabricante negue provavelmente a formula disso é baseada em eritromicina. Antibioticos hoje em dia tem uma restrição na compra somente com receita medica, mas basicamente o efeito é o mesmo do produto "para aquario", eu usei ERITREX 400mg em 400 litros

Eritromicina é mais eficiente para bactérias G(+) que G(-), felizmente as bactérias que fazem parte do ciclo do nitrogenio são do segundo tipo. O maior risco na aplicacao da eritromicina deve-se ao fato da liberação de toxinas na morte das cianos.

Embora eritromicina também mate certas bactérias, estas bactérias podem ser capazes de recolonizar facilmente o sistema. Desde que vc não reintroduza novamente o organismo (ciano), seja atraves da água, rochas ou coral, não haverá nova infestação (obvio).

Entretanto não creio na total seletividade do efeito do antibiotico... entao é bom monitorar o aquario depois da aplicacao

Dissolved Organic Carbon and Red Slime Algae
by Timothy A. Hovanec, Ph.D.

In my May 1999 column I discussed that a factor causing at least some of the algae growth in aquaria could be iron in the aquarium water. This month, I would like to look at the role dissolved organic carbon may play in causing uncontrollable growth of 'algae' in aquaria.

At first it may seem that I can't make-up my mind as to what causes algae growth but this is not the case for several reasons. First, algae, of one sort or another, grow in almost every imaginable environment that is exposed to sunlight. The wide range of environmental conditions means that there is a lot of diversity in the types of algae. So one cannot assume that all algae are the same - they are not. The environmental conditions that algae prefer are as wide ranging as the number and types of algae on Earth. Even aquaria are different from one another and the type of algae that you might find in them will vary from one tank to the next depending upon the environmental conditions. Therefore, no single factor can be said to be the primary cause of algae growth in aquaria. Dissolved organics are just another in a list of compounds that one has to consider when trying to find the source of algae growth in an aquarium.

Secondly, what we consider or call algae in some aquarium situations are, in fact, not algae but bacteria. Bacteria are evenly more widely diverse than algae and can live in many environments that inhospitable to algae. I would like to limit the rest of this month's column to these algae-bacteria and point out why they are different than algae and how this difference effects how to get rid of them.

The most common type of algae-bacteria found in aquaria are in saltwater tanks. These algae-bacteria are really bacteria which are members of the cyanobacteria. In the aquarium hobby, the common name for the worst of the cyanobacteria is red slime algae. As anyone who has had it can attest red slime algae can be seemly impossible to get rid of from an aquarium. You can spend hours vacuuming the coral substrate and decorations of every speak of the algae and you can remove the decorations and blast the algae off with a hose but the algae comes back - overnight no less. It seems that the more you clean the faster the slime algae comes back.

The common treatments for getting rid of red slime algae include reducing the number of hours the lights above the tank are on each day or turning the lights off for a few days. These methods generally don't work well because the cyanobacteria which occur in aquaria do not require light for growth. While the types found in aquaria will not grow well in complete darkness they will grow just find in low level situations. Further, changing the light exposure does not solve the cause of the cyanobacteria growth.

Another treatment, which is rather effective, is to add an antibiotic to the aquaria (usually erythromycin). As said this treatment works but only for a short time so it must be repeated. This presents several problems First, erythromycin is a type of antibiotic called a bactericide. Bactericides are antibiotics which kill the bacterial cells outright. Other antibiotics are bacteriastats which means that they inhibit the reproduction of the bacteria but do not kill them.

Bactericides are not particular about the species of bacteria they kill. Therefore, by dosing your aquarium with them you also run the very real risk of killing the nitrifying bacteria in your system. These will lead to high ammonia and nitrite concentrations and harm to your fish. Bactericides can also kill bacteria which are in symbiosis with your reef organisms and may lead to the death of your invertebrates.

Just as important is the fact that indiscriminate use of antibiotics can create bacteria which are resist to the antibiotic. Thus, when you need to use the antibiotic to save your favorite fish, the antibiotic fails because the bacteria which are infecting your fish are resistant to the antibiotic. This same phenomena has also become a real problem in the treatment of human diseases. Lastly, an antibiotic treats only the symptom not the cause.

What can the major cause of cyanobacteria blooms be in aquaria? The answer may lie with the fact that cyanobacteria are a type of heterotrophic bacteria. Heterotrophic bacteria, as opposed to autotrophic bacteria, get the carbon they need for growth from organic compounds. Cyanobacteria commonly grow in environments rich in particulate and dissolved organics and many aquaria fit this classification. So to control cyanobacteria and get rid of them one needs to look at the sources of dissolved organics in the aquarium and ways to reduce these organics.

The major source of dissolved organics in aquaria is the natural biological processes that accompany having a tank full of fish that are fed often. Fish feed, fish wastes and other particulate organic material are colonized by bacteria which break the material down into dissolved substances. The basic step is for particulate carbon to become dissolved carbon. More fish and more fish feed means a higher concentration of organic substances. One reason that cyanobacteria are usually a bigger problem in saltwater fish tanks versus saltwater reef tanks is that fish tanks receive a lot more fish feed on a daily basis than a reef tank and thus have higher levels of total organic carbon. This promotes the growth of cyanobacteria.

There are many ways to control the amount of organic carbon in your system. Remember, there are two general types of organic material: particulate and dissolved. There are ways to remove both from your aquarium.

First, limit the amount of particulate carbon in your aquarium. This does not mean reducing the number of fish in the tank or reducing the feeding amount (but these would surely help). It means cleaning the mechanical filter component of your filtration systems often. The filter pad is where a majority of the particulate material will get trapped. If your system is heavily stocked you might have to clean this every couple of days but the reward will be worth it. Organic material trapped on the filter pad is of no benefit to the aquarium environment - remove it often. Next, if your aquarium has a substrate clean it regularly with a siphon action gravel washer. The coral or gravel at the bottom of an aquarium is a good play for particulate organic material to collect - so getting rid of this material will help.

Getting rid of the organic material on a regular basis will go a long way towards reducing cyanobacteria blooms. So how often is a regular basis? That has to be decided on an aquarium by aquarium basis. If you have a lot of fish and feed a lot you'll have to clean the mechanical filter and substrate more often than a person with a few fish who feed sparingly. There are three major ways to get rid of dissolved organic carbon. Water changes are the most common. This is a simple method but most people are a little lazy about this. So to compliment water changes one should use protein skimming and activated carbon (both subject of past columns). Skimming and carbon both remove dissolve organic carbon but research has shown that they remove different substances so using them together is beneficial. Clean the skimmer often and change the carbon regularly to get the maximum benefit of these techniques.

To successfully control and eliminate cyanobacteria one needs to use all the ways I mentioned above. Cyanobacteria can be controlled by reducing the amount of organic carbon in your aquarium. That means having the right filtration components and doing regular maintenance. Good fishkeeping.

©1999, Timothy A. Hovanec, Ph.D.
Originally published in Aquarium Fish Magazine, Jun. 1999
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Re: Genericos

#4 Mensagem por Radagast »

Bárbaro, Celso. Deve ir pros tópicos de referência.

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Re: Genericos

#5 Mensagem por Celso Suguimoto »

FlatWorm EXIT

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Essa foi a dosagem usada pelo Wagner Nogueira na época em que discutiamos a composicao do produto, depois acusaram um lojista de usar o conhecido do forum pra vender isso, sendo q a pessoa nem participou ativamente do topico. sic.

1 cápsula de sulfato de quinino tem 300mg + 10 ml de água destilada, teremos:

10 ml = 300 mg
1 ml = 30 mg para cada 100 Litros de agua do aquario.
1 ml = 20 gotas
20 gotas = 30 mg
2 gotas = 10 litros




First, I drained the bottom tank way down so that by filling it I could quickly dilute the toxins that the flatworms release into the water column when they "melt". I added a second skimmer temporarily to skim these juices out also. I also gradually lowered my salinity over two days to 1.016 to allow for a higher oxygen content to ease the stress on the animals.

The box calls for 1 capsule per 10 gallons. I only used 5 capsules for two 75-gallon tanks. The effects were immediate. My HUGE hammer coral (over a foot across) and frogspawn started sliming badly and withdrew. They looked for all the world like they would be dead by morning. They are now fine. Flatworms were all visibly gone within one hour. Two SPS frags that had been damaged by falling into the sand or getting stung by corals completely RTN'd. Healthy SPS closed up and are just polyping back out now. I lost three new Bangai Cardinals that I had just put in before deciding to do this, they had only been in the tank 48 hrs. and might have died anyway. Clams appeared unaffected, other than closing up for about an hour after treatment. I started running carbon after a few hours, and filled the tanks back up with fresh RO/DI water salted to the same level. I still see plenty of pods and my brittlestars are fine. Bristleworms are still fine, I can find them under the clams and rocks just like always.

In short, my treatment appears to be a success. I am running carbon and the two skimmers now, and will do heavy partial water changes every other day for a while. My "for sale" livestock is kept in other systems for the most part, what I did have in there was moved for the treatment.

Warnings/ concerns to others considering this:
I would consider SPS that has any tissue loss at all to be extremely vulnerable and IMO should be moved before treatment. The frags only had small areas of damaged tissue, but completely RTN'd when the stuff was added. I think that lowering the salinity to increase oxygen was probably a big help. Lowering the water level also made it easy for me to dilute the toxins very quickly after the flatties melted.

I will post an update next week as we see how this all washes out. With the low dosage, there is a chance that eggs or something were not destroyed - but I figured I would rather risk letting some flatties live than overmedicate my specimens.

Going without any fish in the low-current and high-nutrient area was what created my problem IMO. I think there are probably flatworms in all of our liverock, sand, etc that do not become a problem in normal environments. I did not have a heavy population of them by any means, but I got scared by Flame*Angel's description of how everything in the tank stressed when the population of flatties would surge- just from the toxins that live red planaria secrete. Once they reach high population levels, the high toxin level created during their demise often prevents treatment at that point. (or makes it much scarier!)

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Re: Genericos

#6 Mensagem por Celso Suguimoto »

Marina Fodra escreveu:Bárbaro, Celso. Deve ir pros tópicos de referência.


A intencao minha é condensar as "receitas" aqui depois eu movo pra la...rs
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Re: Genericos

#7 Mensagem por Celso Suguimoto »

REDOX BOSTER

Esse creio que o produto nao exista mais... mas era pergamanato de potassio, um forte oxidante, eleva a ORP as alturas, meio perigoso de se usar

500 mV estressa os animais e acima de 600mV ja começa a tornar-se toxico. Ele "queima" o tecido dos animais principalmente as branquias.

Pergamanato de potassio eleva realmente a ORP... mas é perigoso se dosado erroneamente ... Outra particularidade é deixar traços de manganes.

Eu já usei na tentativa de acabar com cianos... nao funcionou... mas no caso de um STN até que parou a necrose. Mas não se deve levar em conta apenas meu uso com uma receita de bolo... eu acho perigoso, o produto encontra facilmente em algumas farmacias

O Roberto Antonio usava frequentemente no reef dele... mas depois aboliu tbem... É um metodo muito artificial de elevar a ORP e nao permite constancia no parametro... isto é oscila muito, dá pra usar como desinfetante em aquarios hospitais .

POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE KMnO4:

Potassium Permanganate for aquarium or pond fish treatmentThe permanganate ion is a strong oxidizing agent.
Potassium Permanganate is a strong oxidizer that when added to water will give a deep purple color that will slowly turn brown/yellow as it oxidizes. The more dissolved organics, the more quickly the change of color to brown/yellow which indicates the oxidation properties are mostly spent.

USE:

•Being an oxidizer, Potassium Permanganate is useful for water clarification and odor elimination; often where a bacterial cloud is present.
Potassium Permanganate should only be used in established cycled aquariums.

Potassium Permanganate can be used to reduce dangerous high organic levels in freshwater ponds and aquariums, especially “Bacterial Blooms” (Grey cloudy tanks).
It can be used as a special-purpose freshwater conditioner for ponds and aquariums, because of its ability to improve water quality by oxidation of excessive dissolved and suspended organics. The chronic presence of excessive dissolved organics in the water promotes the growth of potential disease-causing bacteria such as Aeromonas, and as well lower KH and pH.
However it should be noted that initial oxidation produces Carbon Dioxide which will initially lower pH/KH and I recommend a water change a day after the use of Potassium Permanganate for the purpose of oxidation of organics in ponds or aquariums.

•Probably the best use for Potassium Permanganate is for fish baths or swabbing infections caused by bacterium such as Columnaris.
For these uses, a fish keeper would use in a bath at double recommended tank strength for 30 minutes.

Product Resource: Potassium Permanganate

Do NOT combine with Methylene Blue in baths.
MB is a better choice where stress has occurred or ammonia and nitrite poisoning has occurred. Whereas Potassium Permanganate is the better choice for Flukes, external nematodes, Anchor worms, Columnaris or Aeromonas/Vibrio infections.
HOWEVER, even the use for Columnaris and the other before mentioned "diseases', it should be noted that is the fish are weakened severely or if the fish is very sensitive fish (such as scaleless fish like Knife fish), Methylene Blue may still be the better choice even if less effective, as the oxidizing properties of Potassium Permanganate may be too much for these fish (1/2 strength may be another option).

Please see this article for more about fish baths/dips:
“How to Perform a Medicated Fish Bath or Dip”

•Potassium Permanganate can be used as a plant dip for snails at double recommended tank strength for 10 -20 minutes. In the tank it can be used for Fluke treatment and is mildly effective for snail eradication (not a recommended snail removal method from my experience).

•Potassium Permanganate is the best choice for a net dip, as it is both effective, yet not nearly as dangerous as other effective alternatives such as bleach if some accidentally finds its way into the aquarium.
A second quick dip in water containing any chlorine removing water conditioner such as Start Right or Prime is suggested (not 100% required) to remove excess PP prior to use in the aquarium.

•Potassium Permanganate is also an excellent “second choice” for direct (full strength) application to fish eye infections (cloudy eyes, “Fish Cataracts”).
Hospital tank treatment with Erythromycin is also recommended.
Silver Nitrate is the first choice for eye problems, however this product is nearly impossible to find and requires special handling and should be followed by Potassium Dichromate. The strong oxidizing properties of Potassium Permanganate makes it useful for some serious wounds where you want to “seal” the wound, such as a fish with a missing eye, but do NOT use on open 'bloody' wounds.

•Another use is for mild Fluke (Trematode) infestations.
Reference: “Trematodes & Nematodes in Fish”)

If preparing your own (dry) Potassium Permanganate treatment, use 2 ppm per liter of water for in tank (pond) treatments and up to 10 ppm per liter for 10 -30 minute baths.
For already prepared Potassium Permanganate (in liquid form) such as Jungle's Clear Water, use double the recommended normal tank dosage for a bath.

Product Source: Jungle Clear Water

Care must be exercised when using this product, whatever level dosage is used. The action of Potassium Permanganate proceed more rapidly under acidic water conditions and higher temperatures, while the action is less rapid at higher pH and water hardness.

Also do not combine with de-chlorinators as these products are reducers (usually container Sodium Thiosulfate or other reducers) that will immediately remove Potassium Permanganate since it is an oxidizer.
Please keep in mind that this is an oxidizer than can and will destroy beneficial bacteria, so use with care if you must treat a main display tank (which is why I prefer baths or hospital tanks).
An aquarist/Pond Keeper should also note that Potassium Permanganate suppresses photosynthesis in plants in the water, although this can be beneficial, especially in ponds with large amounts of decomposing organics as this will increase oxygen levels in the pond, particularly at night. In this process Potassium Permanganate reduces biological oxygen demand, and improves water quality and clarity.

In case of accidental overdose with Potassium Permanganate, a 2 to 3x dose of Prime in the tank will immediately remove this, or if a fish reacts adversely after swabbing a sore, lesion, etc. an immediate dip into water treated with Prime (or similar water conditioners such as Start Right, Amquel, Stress Coat, etc.) at 3 x strength will immediately stop the reaction.

*Potassium Permanganate can also be used for an experiment of testing you water conditioners chlorine removal properties. Add a double strength solution to a container of water, then add your water conditioner at recommended dose; the purple color of the Potassium Permanganate should immediately disappear indicating the effectiveness of your water conditioner and demonstrating how quickly it can remove chlorine (which is an oxidizer like Potassium Permanganate, while the water conditioner is a reducer often containing Sodium Thiosulfate).

Further References:
*SeaChem Prime water conditioner
*Jungle Start Right
*Aquarium Water Conditioner Information

Two products that contain Potassium Permanganate are found in this Jungle Product:
Jungle Clear Water/Potassium Permanganate

Contraindications

*DO NOT combine with Sulfuric Acid as this can produce explosive gases that can spontaneously combust alcohol nearby.

*Do NOT use/mix with ANY other medication treatment including Methylene Blue other than sodium chloride (salt)

*Wait 2 to 4 hours to add after use of any Redox Reducing water conditioner, which is most any including SeaChem Prime, Kordon Novaqua, Kordon Amquel, Jungle Start Right, API Stress Coat, etc.

*Care should used that any direct application does not get in fish gills or any serious necrosis of fish tissue as potassium permanganate will burn the gills and further exasperate any necrosis of tissue.


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Re: Genericos

#8 Mensagem por Denis P Lima »

Boa tarde,

Celso existe o uso de Levomisol (Ascaridil)
para o tratamento de planarias!

A dose recomendada de levamizole para planárias é 0,75 a 0,8mg/L. Desta feita, 150mg tratam cerca de 200L de água.


Comprimidos custam cerca de 2,50!

Vou tentar achar o protocolo de tratamento e coloco no post!Lembro de um artigo, mas não lembro onde guardei!

Abraços, excelente tópico.




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Re: Genericos

#9 Mensagem por Celso Suguimoto »

Para AEFW tambem funciona, mas em doses maiores em forma de banhos no coral Um comprimido de Ascardil de 150mg adulto para 400ml de agua, o infantil tem adocante

[img]
ASCARIDIL (Janssen-Cilag)
Cloridrato de levamisol

Composição:

Cada comprimido de 150 mg contém: Cloridrato de levamisol 150 mg. Excipientes: Amido, lactose, polivinilpirrolidona, estearato de magnésio.


Cada comprimido de 80 mg contém: Cloridrato de levamisol 80 mg. Excipientes: Lactose, sacarina sódica, ciclamato de sódio, celulose microcristalina, amido, corante vermelho ponceau 4R, estearato de magnésio, talco.


Levamisol:

Levamisol has a wide range of anti-nematodic (worms) effects. It is efficient in destroying both adult and larvae forms of gastrointestinal and pulmonary nematode parasites in fish such as Camallanus Nematodes (& is one of the best nematode treatments one can use).
It attacks parasites by causing first paralysis and then death of the parasites. Partly decomposed parasites are being eliminated during the first 24 hours since the beginning of the medicine application.

Levamisole is found primarily in wormers for animals at veterinary supply houses and treated a 5 ppm. This was also found in an Aquatronics product, Discomed (a good one at that); no longer available since the demise of what was arguably the best fish treatment manufacturer.
In fact as a side note, purchasing aquarium products at companies such as Amazon, Pet Mountain and many others will likely result in more top notch aquarium information and supply companies disappearing as did Aquatronics, remember this the next time you attempt to save a $1 by purchasing at these types of retailers

Dosage: Refer to product instructions containing these medications (Do NOT use any of these in the presence of invertebrates). If Levamisol cannot be located, the use of Levamisol HCL found in many commercial dog, poultry, cattle, etc. wormers can be substituted.

59 mg of Levamisole HCl is equivalent to 50 mg of pure levamisole.

You will need 2.36 mg/L (or 9 mg/Gallon) of Levamisole HCL, so approximately 90mg of Levamisole HCL will treat 10 gallons (38 liters) with a required 2 ppm concentration.
Since Levamisole can be safely over dosed (with a considerable safety margin), approximately .019 teaspoon will work per 10 gallons.

Be prepared to vacuum gravel/change water to remove dead worms. The nematodes will be giving off toxins as they die.

CAUTION: Do NOT use to treat Detritus Worms usually falsely identified as Planaria. Since these generally harmless worms are mostly substrate composters, their population is usually much higher than the worms one might see on the glass, so a sudden die off from the use of Levamisole can be catastrophic to your fish population.
BETTER is to lower your bio load, less/better fish food feeding, vacuuming of substrate, and other general aquarium maintenance procedures

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Re: Genericos

#10 Mensagem por Celso Suguimoto »

Agent Green da ATM, Liquid Phosphate Remover da Ultralife demais removedores de fosfato liquidos

Imagem

Cloreto de Lantanio


Nao sei como o Alex chegou nessa conta, eu uso o da ATM e ainda pretendo fazer um generico, mas como o produto é meio perigoso se dosado erroneamente (baixa muito rapidamente o fosfato) prefiro pesquisar mais e fazer de modo seguro. Ha relatos de mortes de Tangs, principalmente Zebrastomas os sintomas sao comportamento errático e respiração ofegante. Suspeita-se que o cloreto de lantânio precipita e entope parcialmente as brânquias.


alex braga escreveu:gente eu ja ate cotei o cloreto de lantanio rsrs a bagatela de 242 reais por 25grs de cloreto, mas se eu entendi as contas se diluir isso em 10000ml cada ml reduzira 1ppm de fosfato em 1250 litros, 200 ml = 25000 litros tratados... 242 reais / 50 = r$ 4,84 por tubo de 200ml, fica ate barato mas sei la, acho melhor produtos a base de goetita



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Genericos

#11 Mensagem por Denis P Lima »

Imagem

Pode ser utilizado

Vodka
Imagem

Vinagre de Alcool
Imagem

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Editado pela última vez por Denis P Lima em 23 Nov 2016, 14:23, em um total de 2 vezes.
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Genericos

#12 Mensagem por Denis P Lima »

Imagem

Vinagre
Imagem

E Kalkwasser

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